Hanging Gardens

Hanging Gardens sits on the southwestern edge of the island. The topography is a sheer vertical drop that is heavily terraced. Ledges and deep undercut crevices break up the rock face. The site earns its name from its dense marine growth. Cascading curtains of pastel Dendronephthya soft corals cover the overhangs. Enormous purple gorgonian sea fans extend into the blue water to catch the flow. Massive barrel sponges anchor the ledges. The coral density resembles a vertical greenhouse dropping away beneath you. The structure drops to at least 40 metres. The most colourful growth covers the upper wall where the light penetrates best.

Dive guides frequently schedule Hanging Gardens as the second dive of your Sipadan permit day. It provides a distinct change of pace after the deep adrenaline of an early morning drop at South Point. The boat drops you close to the wall. You descend directly to your agreed maximum depth. From there you work your way slowly up the terraces. The current is generally gentle to moderate. You experience a very relaxed drift dive. You follow the wall on one shoulder. The water movement carries you past the coral fans. You spend the first part of the dive in the deeper sections looking for whitetip reef sharks (Triaenodon obesus). You then gradually shallow up. Your divemaster manages the pace to keep you within recreational no-decompression limits. The final part of your dive takes place in the bright shallows where the coral colours are most intense. The boat tracks your bubbles on the surface. It picks you up whenever you surface.

The sheer volume of marine life sets this wall apart. Heavy green turtle traffic is the signature feature here. Divers often log more than 50 turtle sightings on a single dive. The turtles use the ledges to rest. They swim continuously along the vertical face. Whitetip reef sharks sleep on the deeper ledges. They patrol the blue water just off the wall. The reef structure here provides excellent shelter for smaller marine life. You examine the barrel sponges for squat lobsters and small crabs. It is a very productive stretch of reef that rewards slow diving. A slow pace allows you to spot the smaller creatures hidden among the giant sea fans. Hawkfish rest on the coral heads while moray eels occupy the deep crevices. Colourful nudibranchs are tucked into the structure. You scan the blue water for passing schools of jacks. You check the overhangs for resting fish. In the deeper zones you might spot grey reef sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos) cruising the perimeter. The middle sections hold the thickest growth of soft coral. The shallow crest near the surface hosts anthias and damselfish darting among the hard corals.

This is a premier location for underwater photography. The site accommodates both wide-angle and macro setups. The classic Hanging Gardens shot involves positioning yourself below a ledge and shooting upward along the vertical wall. You frame the colourful soft corals against the sunlit surface with a passing turtle as a bonus in the background. You need capable strobes to illuminate the corals against the bright surface light. Macro photographers rely on spotlights to pull small subjects like nudibranchs from the dark crevices. The current is gentle enough for you to hold your position and frame a shot.

Sabah Parks enforces a minimum certification of Advanced Open Water to dive Sipadan. Hanging Gardens is well suited for newly qualified Advanced Open Water divers. The manageable current and the constant visual reference of the wall make buoyancy control relatively straightforward compared to the blue-water points. The primary skill this site asks of you is spatial awareness. You must maintain excellent fin control to ensure you do not accidentally kick the protruding gorgonians and fragile soft corals while you drift. Be sure to check your depth gauge often because the wall offers no bottom reference to stop an accidental descent.

The dive is at its visual best from mid-morning to early afternoon. The shifting sun angle directly illuminates the intricate textures of the wall during these hours. Sipadan offers good diving all year. The best visibility falls between March and October. The months from mid-February to mid-November bring good diving with softer visibility at the ends of the season. Mid-November to mid-February is a mix of cloud and rain and sun. Sabah Parks closes Sipadan to all visitors every November to allow the marine ecosystem to rest. The surrounding islands of Mabul and Kapalai stay open for diving throughout November.

Sabah Parks issues 254 Sipadan permits a day. Every diver on the island is there on a permit issued for that day in their name. Snorkellers also need a permit and draw from the same allocation. A Guaranteed Sipadan permit is the best way to secure your days on the island. A guaranteed permit comes with the right combination of resort, dive package and minimum number of nights. Which dates can be guaranteed depends on the resort you choose. The team steers you to the combination that fits your travel window. A Sipadan permit day gives 3 dives if you stay on Mabul or Kapalai or aboard the Celebes Explorer and 2 dives if you stay on Pom Pom or Mataking. The boat run takes 15 to 25 minutes. A stay on the Celebes Explorer liveaboard provides diving at Sipadan on most days of your trip. In the afternoon you might move to West Ridge to catch the descending sun.

• South Point
• West Ridge
• Coral Garden
• The Drop-Off
• Underwater Photography

Send your dates and the names of everyone coming and your current certification levels. The team comes back with what can be arranged for your time in Sabah.